Calm Summer Mornings to
Windy Afternoons – Croaker & Piggy Perch

3rd of 5 Articles

This is the 3rd in the
series of articles written for the average bay fisherman who wants
to use bait.  I don’t know how many times I’ve been in the bait
house on a summer morning and hear a customer ask “What are they
biting on?” after which a slow drawl from Ron would follow “Been
bite’n on croaker” and an excited “I’ll take a couple of dozen of
those!” would shoot out of beginner croaker fisherman’s mouth.  I
can’t help but wonder what those 24 croaker will go through during
the day!  Hopefully after reading this article the croaker and the
fisherman will have a more pleasant day!  For example: a three
person charter I’ll take anywhere from 12-18 dozen baits and this
could be the difference between 4 fish or 40 fish!

Now some fishermen ask what
is best Piggy Perch or Croaker that can be a tricky question.
Croaker actually show up at the bait shop earlier (May) than Piggies
(June), so that is an easy choice in the beginning of the summer.
Wherein lies the problem, determining when and what size the Piggies
are when they become productive as fishing bait.  I start using
piggies as early as possible and sometimes for more than a month
after they show up at the bait shop I’m still buying both.  Because
of their size croaker are stronger swimmers for deeper water but the
Piggies doubled up in the shallower sand pockets can be awesome fish
catchers!

True Piggy Perch

Let’s get down to the rigs I
prefer when fishing these baits.  I always use 20# fluorocarbon
leader tied to the main line, I do not use a swivel because I
believe it is in the way, snags more grass and is more visible.  As
with most live bait or lures I use a loop knot at the terminal or
hook end.

Leader
– Easy, I use only 20# fluorocarbon!  The leader length should be
about 18” give or take.  It should be long enough to were the knot
does not have to go through the eye when casting which prevents
longer casts.

Hooks
– 3/0, 4/0, 5/0 6/0 Gamakatsu or VMC Kahle hooks depending on the
size of the bait.

Corks
– I predominantly use Cajun Thunders.  On lighter wind days the old
Mansfield Mauler could be an option too.  I even save old corks for
those days that the Redfish don’t want a lot of sound!

Cork Colors
– I always start with two primary colors, pink and chartreuse.  Most
of the time you will find Redfish like one and not the other and the
same for Trout…however they may be hitting both or you can select
the color depending on when you are fishing an area more conducive
to the fish you expect to catch.

Knots
– I use a line to leader knot instead of a swivel.  The only time I
use a swivel is when fishing the bait on the bottom using a weight
because at times I need a longer casts on the calm shallow flats.  I
tie a loop knot at the Kahle hook for more realistic movement.

Accessories
- Beads are not as important in this type of fishing but can be
used.  If you’re going to try beads the general rule of thumb is to
start with small beads and at least one rig without a bead.  Really
make sure your buddy’s is fishing the bait properly before ruling
out any combination!  Sometimes going to a larger bead when the
water is very muddy or stirred up makes a difference!

Now that the terminal gear
has been laid out it is time to talk about presentation!  The cast
should be made in an arch and slow the bait down just before it hits
the water to make a softer presentation – then allow the bait to
swim to the bottom (allow 1 second for every 2 foot of water)
otherwise you’ll stress the bait by having to swim against the tight
line.  Occasionally, especially with a third or forth cast of the
same bait you might have to flick your rod tip to wake the bait up
to swim down.  You’ll probably notice a bird swooping down to get
the bait at this point!  Darn Birds!  Once that bait is down where
the fish are you’ll need to flick the rod tip about every 10-15
seconds, this does a combination of things 1) It gets the bait to
react so you can tell how lively it is 2) It pulls the bait away
from it’s prey thus enticing a strike 3) It will keep the bait from
burying in the grass or shell.  The flicks are more of just whipping
the tip of  your rod from a 10 O’clock to 12 O’clock position in a
manner that only moves the bait several inches at a time (when doing
this on the flats fishing sand pockets you don’t move the bait too
much or you grass him up and have to recast).

Hook Set
- This style of fishing
requires that you feed line to the fish in a manner that he doesn’t
detect tension on the line and the perfected Bass angler hook set
(Bill Dancing) will lose you a lot of fish!  The proper way to hold
the rod and set the hook is to:

Spinning Rod

1)
Hold a spinning rod at 12
O’clock with a slight bow in the line while waiting on a strike.

2)
When you feel the thud of a
fish drop the rod tip as the fish is taking the line, remember to
keep the same slight bow in the line.  If and when the fish stops
running with it you must immediately (I mean immediately!) flick the
rod tip back to the 12 O’clock position and be ready for it to come
back, which it usually will!  Sometimes you have to do this 3 or 4
times before he really swallows the Croaker or Piggy and makes the
longer run.

3) Reel up to set the hook
and when
you feel the weight of the fish firmly lift the rod back to the 10
O’clock position.

4)
Keep good pressure on the
fish to get him up to the surface and into the net, Trout like to
shake their heads and regurgitate the bait and if you are fishing
the rigs there are a lot of snags if you let the fish stay deep.

Bait Caster

1)
Hold a bait casting rod and
reel at about 10 O’clock position with a slight bow in the line and
be ready to free spool during the run (works better for this type of
fishing).

2)
When you feel the thud of a
fish drop the rod tip as the fishing is taking the line keeping the
same slight bow in the line.  If and when the fish stops running
with it you must immediately (I mean immediately!) flick the rod tip
back to the 10 O’clock position and be ready for it to come back,
which it usually will!  Sometimes you have to do this 3 or 4 times
before he really swallows the Croaker or Piggy.

3) Reel up to set the
hook and
when you feel the weight of the fish firmly lift the rod back to the
10 O’clock position.

4)
Keep good pressure on the
fish to get him up to the surface and into the net, Trout like to
shake their heads and regurgitate the bait and if you are fishing
the rigs there are a lot of snags if you let the fish stay deep.

Locations

I use Croaker and Piggies
when fishing the bay oil rigs, deeper bay oyster reefs, outside bay
islands and channels with deep water access to grass in about 3-5
foot of water.  I also use these baits on the flats in many
capacities such as fishing sand pockets or even right in the grass
itself.  In the flats on a windy day putting a Piggy 12” – 20” under
a Cajun Thunder can be killer when nobody else has had a good bite,
keep the bait fresh, they don’t last long casting under a cork
(expensive but effective)! I even use a cork sometimes when I’m
anchored up fishing pot holes and grass just for something a little
different!

Special Techniques

Here are some special tips
to work these baits in the areas I mentioned, after time you’ll be
adding your own special touches that work for you or your fish,
whatever the case may be!

• Double up your small
  baits in the flats, it keeps them from burying in the grass.

• Cut the tail on the
  bigger piggies in the flats so they don’t bury in the grass and
  they put off a sent.

• When the bite is slow
  try varying techniques double your bait (smaller), try piggies,
  try croaker.

• Sometimes the Redfish
  and Flounder love a Piggy/Croaker combo (usually smaller Piggy)!

• The Piggy doesn’t
  have to be alive under the popping cork in the flats for
  Redfish…but I like’em that way.

• I have caught some
  great fish on piggies big enough to keep the cork under while
  fishing in the deeper areas off the flats, especially on busy
  days that may have pushed the fish off the flats.

• The Piggy or Croaker
  have to be lively has hell in the deeper bay; they also must
  swim toward the bottom!

• After a morning of
  Trout fishing in the deeper bay come back to the flats to throw
  some of your weaker and smaller baits into pot holes for some
  Redfish action.  This is good because they can’t bury in the
  grass as easy!

• I never really use
  croaker under a popping cork but I might try it one day!  Use
  your imagination!

In closing remember that
nothing about fishing is set in stone, pay attention, vary your
approach and find what works!  If fishing gets slow after a couple
of good catches I find that the angler gets a little pumped and not
letting the fish run enough!

I hope you’ve enjoyed this
article and remember if you don’t eat it release it and try to
release all big Trout especially over 25”…get a picture it
will last longer, preserve some fish for our kids!

Fish
More, Live Longer!
Capt. Scott McCune

____________________________________________
Capt. Scott McCune (USCG Master)

fishntexas.com with ‘The
Saltwater Cowboy’

361.563.TUNA(8862)cell

Email:

scott@fishntexas.com

Web Page:

www.fishntexas.com

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24" trout caught with El Capitan Gilbert Vela

2nd of 5 Articles

This is the 2nd in a series of articles written for the average bay fisherman who would like to know a little more about approaching a day of fishing.  Let’s imagine you are arriving at the boat ramp on a Spring morning and the wind has been blowing since before you sat down for breakfast at that greasy spoon restaurant, a solid 18 knots!  Not to worry that is a typical day down on the middle coast, you have to learn to adjust your tactics or have an empty fish box at the end of the day!  A couple of  the most important decisions you’ll make is what type of bait you decide to buy and the way you will present it to the fish.   Your presentation will be decided in great part by the weather and time of year!

Shrimp and Popping cork is a great way to fish 8 or 9 months out of the year on windy days (Fall, Winter and Spring)!  This style of fishing is used by only a few guides, it seems there is a contingent that has become opposed to teaching their customers how to cast, work the bait and set the hook…Not Me!  Let me have a day of my clients casting over a day of anchoring up and casting for them!  I have spent a lot of time working with the young and old alike, for example the 70 year old Yeager’s, yes the nephew of Chuck Yeager and also a war fighter pilot, were able to catch a whole mess of fish during an afternoon half day trip this Spring.  I like my customers to fish, this is a great style of fishing, even for children!  There are times when the anchor up guys catch more Redfish however they haven’t let their customers touch a rod other than to hand them the rod and reel when the fish is on.  Now don’t get me wrong there are days when that is productive and I’m forced into that type of routine also, however the good catch on those days are limits of Reds and a couple of Drum maybe…Shrimp and Popping cork good days are limits of Reds, near limits of Trout with maybe a huge Trout RELEASED, a couple of Drum and a ton of fish in between!
Rigging Material              Finished Product

Now this is going to get the attention of any stray lure aficionados reading this, consistently successful Shrimp and Popping cork fishing is more technical than any lure I know!  Here are some of the things I have learned over the years of doing one of my favorite styles of guided fishing:

Corks – I predominantly use Cajun Thunders, however on deeper reefs Rattle Corks work well.  On lighter wind days the old Mansfield Mauler could be and option too.  I even save old corks for those days that the Redfish don’t want a lot of sound!

Colors – I always start with two primary colors, pink and chartreuse.  Most of the time you will find Redfish like one and not the other and the same for Trout…however they may be hitting both or you can select the color depending on when you are fishing an area more conducive to the fish you expect to catch.

Leader – Easy, I use only 20# fluorocarbon!  The leader length when fishing the flats should be just above the grass you are drifting over, I keep varying lengths available to change on the fly.  Leader lengths are increased when fishing the deeper bay which I seldom do using this style of fishing.

Hooks – #2 or #4 laser sharp trebles depending on the shrimp size.  I have found smaller to medium size shrimp work better than the big ones.  The larger shrimp do not work under a popping cork, you might as well save them as an appetizer with the corn battered Trout!

Knots – Use an improved clinch knot from the line to the cork.  Do not use a snap swivel, it makes the cork lay over!  I use a loop knot to the bottom of the cork for quick changing leader lengths and loop knots to the treble hook for more realistic movement.

Accessories – Beads are a VERY important part and sometimes not a part of the rig all together!  The general rule of thumb is to start with small beads on most of the rigs and at least one rig without a bead.  Really make sure your buddy’s is fishing the bait properly before ruling out any package!  Sometimes going to a larger bead when the water is very muddy or stirred up makes a difference!

Now that the terminal gear has been laid out it is time to talk about presentation!  The cast should be made in an arch and as the cork is floating down flip the bail on the reel over by hand to make a softer presentation – pop the cork once or twice immediately after it hits the water…did I say immediately…I meant it…I believe that is a major key to being effective!  I start out the day by popping the cork (learn to pop it WITHOUT moving it toward the boat) in about 5 second intervals on windy days pop it more!  Remember that even on windy days Redfish may not like a lot of popping so alternate presentation to find what works.

This style of fishing isn’t like bobber fishing for perch, so the perfected Bass angler hook set (Bill Dancing) is worthless here!  The proper way to set the hook is to:
1) Hold the rod at 10 O’clock during the retrieve (only making up the line as boat drifts to the cork)
2) Drop the rod tip when the cork goes down
3) Reel up to set the hook
4) When you feel the weight of the fish firmly lift the rod back to the 10 O’clock position

If you follow the actions listed above you will get fish in the box!  You’ll also want to learn to stop the bait within a couple of feet if you don’t feel the weight of the fish and pop the cork if it comes back to the surface, you don’t want to keep reeling the bait out of the strike zone!  Remember the retrieve is a steady reeling, if you let slack get in then try to catch up you will not even come close to realizing your potential catch at the end of the day!

In closing remember that nothing about fishing is set in stone, pay attention, vary your approach and find what works!  If fishing gets slow after a couple of good catches I find that the angler gets a little pumped and is working the cork faster than before the hook ups!  In an additional note let’s not over look popping cork and piggies on the occasional early summer day!  Use the same popping cork rig but instead of a treble use an appropriate size kahle hook!  This can be an incredible way to fish when nobody else has had a good bite, keep the bait fresh, they don’t last long casting under a cork (expensive but effective)!

I hope you’ve enjoyed this article and remember if you don’t eat it release it and try to release all big Trout…get a picture it will last longer, save some for the kids!

Fish More, Live Longer!
Capt. Scott McCune
_______________________________________ _____
Capt. Scott McCune (USCG Master)
fishntexas.com with ‘The Saltwater Cowboy’
361.563.TUNA(8862)cell
Email: scott@fishntexas.com
Web Page: www.fishntexas.com
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